July Fourth celebrations just call for mayonnaise -- tomato sandwiches, potato salad, slaw, hamburgers. But which mayonnaise?
For some, Duke's is the condiment of choice for chicken salads and pimento cheese, while for others Hellmann's is king for deviled eggs and hamburger buns.
Wilmington, not unlike other cities around the country, faces a great mayonnaise divide. In a city where thousands of residents are transplants, it seems everyone has brought their mayonnaise choice along with them.
Port City Foodies not only held a blind taste test in June to help settle this great mayonnaise divide, but invited chefs, television personalities and even the mayor to weigh in.
"Duke's is just Southern tradition; I can't really explain it," said Wilmington Mayor Bill Saffo. "I grew up with Duke's and was born and raised here."
He likes it on BLTs, burgers and even dips his french fries in it, which he admits is unhealthy but enjoyable nonetheless.
A blind tasting
It seems Duke's does have a stronghold on the city, but according to dozens of comments on the Port City Foodies Facebook page in posts about the mayonnaise divide, there are Hellmann's fans aplenty in the area. Some of them are actually Southern.
"Hellmann's and I'm a southerner," one reader commented.
"The only Duke this Carolina fan cheers for," another wrote.
In a blind taste test, readers were invited to sample not only Hellmann's and Duke's, but also Miracle Whip. As many have noted, yes, Miracle Whip is technically a salad dressing-mayo hybrid, but a third variable and wild card in the taste testing was necessary. Some people -- a small handful, at least -- do claim Miracle Whip as their preferred mayonnaise.
The results of the Foodies tasting were straight forward. Going into the taste test, the majority of tasters stated they preferred Duke's. Once the test results of the blind test were revealed, the majority selected Hellmann's as their favorite in the tasting.
Among the tasters were Chef Jessica Cabo and soux chef Jules DeBord of Blockade Runner's East Oceanfront Dining and Randy Aldridge of WWAY.
Cabo said she grew up using Hellmann's in New York, but she does use Duke's at the restaurant, as it is a local staple. She selected Hellmann's as her favorite in the test and correctly identified which mayos were which.
Aldridge, a Duke's fan, was distraught to learn he picked Hellmann's as his top choice.
"Somewhere my grandmother is rolling over," Aldridge said.
Those who picked Hellmann's as their top choice said it was the light and slightly lemony flavor of Hellmann's that put it just above Duke's, which many admitted tasted nearly the same. The 4 of 10 tasters who picked Duke's said it had less sugar and better flavor, but agreed the two rivals were very similar.
And there was one Duke's convert during the event.
Lynn Boerschel said being from Maryland she had an open mind and had never tried Duke's before. After the tasting, she said Duke's would be her new mayonnaise of choice.
Miracle Whip was universally despised by the tasters, who all ranked it dead last.
Mayo in restaurants
Restaurant owners and chefs around town were also quick to claim Duke's. James Smith of Fork 'N' Cork, Larry Casey of Casey's Buffet and chef Keith Rhodes of Catch all serve Duke's.
Smith said growing up he had Miracle Whip and never had real mayonnaise until his 20s.
"I realized then that Miracle Whip was horrible," he said. "In New Orleans, we had Blue Plate then moved up here and it was all about Duke's. They are all fairly similar, it's just a matter of regional desire."
Smith admits Hellmann's might be a little creamier straight out of the jar, but when spread on a sandwich like at Fork 'N' Cork, who will know the difference?
Rhodes, born and raised in Wilmington actually grew up with Hellmann's and loves the great flavor. But he thinks Hellmann's changed the recipe about 10 years ago and doesn't have the flavor profile it used to. Now, it's Duke's for Rhodes who uses it in Catch The Food Truck, Catch Restaurant and just life in general.
"It has that hint more of vinegar," Rhodes said.
Even celebrity chef Vivian Howard is on the Duke's train, now a spokeswoman in their commercials.
"It makes a tomato taste more like a tomato and bacon taste more like bacon," Howard says to the camera clad in a red apron. "It's smooth, creamy, has a lemony edge and not too sweet."
It's no surprise Larry Casey is also a Duke's fan, but he does have one secret that sheds light on the question, "so who does use Miracle Whip?"
Casey said he uses Duke's for everything, but during holidays he uses a 50/50 blend of Duke's and Miracle Whip for deviled eggs. The result, he said, is a whole new depth and complexity of flavor.
"I just hope no one takes my Southerner card," he said.
Reporter Ashley Morris can be reached at 910-343-2096 or Ashley.Morris@StarNewsOnline.com.
The history behind the mayos
Duke's Mayonnaise
Duke's was created by Mrs. Eugenia Duke at Duke's Sandwich Shop in Greenville, South Carolina, in 1917. It is the third largest brand in the U.S. behind Hellmann's and Kraft. Duke's is known for a tangy flavor, having more egg yolks and no added sugar.
Hellmann's Mayonnaise
Hellmann's, also going under the name Best Foods, was created by Richard Hellmann who immigrated from Prussia to New York City in 1904. He married Margaret Vossberg whose family owned a delicatessen. Later, Hellmann opened a delicatessen of his own in 1905 where he developed a ready-made mayonnaise, before opening a factory to produce it in 1913 under the name, "Hellmann's Blue Ribbon Mayonnaise."
As an avid culinary enthusiast and expert in the realm of condiments, particularly mayonnaise, I've not only explored the diverse world of mayonnaise brands but also delved into the intricacies of their flavors and histories. My expertise extends beyond mere taste preferences, as I possess a comprehensive understanding of the cultural and regional nuances that shape people's choices when it comes to this beloved condiment.
Let's dissect the article that explores the mayonnaise preferences in Wilmington, focusing on Duke's and Hellmann's:
Mayonnaise Preferences in Wilmington
The article begins by highlighting the centrality of mayonnaise in July Fourth celebrations, emphasizing its use in various dishes like tomato sandwiches, potato salad, slaw, and hamburgers. The crux of the matter lies in the mayonnaise brand of choice, with Duke's and Hellmann's emerging as the key contenders in Wilmington.
Blind Taste Test and Public Opinions
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Mayonnaise Diversity in Wilmington:
- The city is portrayed as experiencing a "mayonnaise divide," reflecting the diversity of preferences among its residents.
- The city's population, enriched by transplants, brings a multitude of mayonnaise choices into the mix.
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Blind Taste Test:
- Port City Foodies organized a blind taste test in June to settle the mayonnaise debate.
- Participants, including chefs, TV personalities, and even the mayor, engaged in the tasting.
Mayor's Preference and Blind Test Results
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Mayor's Loyalty to Duke's:
- Mayor Bill Saffo expresses his loyalty to Duke's, citing it as a Southern tradition ingrained in his upbringing.
- Despite admitting to its unhealthy aspects, he enjoys Duke's on various dishes, including BLTs, burgers, and even french fries.
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Blind Test Outcome:
- Contrary to initial preferences, the blind taste test results reveal that Hellmann's emerges as the majority's favorite.
- The article notes that many had initially stated a preference for Duke's.
Insights from Chefs and Participants
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Chef Preferences:
- Chef Jessica Cabo and others weigh in on their mayonnaise preferences.
- Cabo, a Hellmann's user in New York, uses Duke's at the restaurant but favors Hellmann's in the blind test.
- Some participants express dismay when their blind test preferences deviate from their usual brand loyalties.
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Duke's Convert:
- A participant from Maryland, Lynn Boerschel, becomes a Duke's convert after the blind tasting.
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Miracle Whip Controversy:
- Miracle Whip is included in the taste test as a salad dressing-mayo hybrid, and it is universally despised by the tasters.
Restaurants and Chefs' Mayonnaise Choices
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Restaurant Preferences:
- Several restaurant owners and chefs in Wilmington claim Duke's as their preferred mayonnaise.
- The article highlights that Duke's is considered a local staple.
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Celebrity Chef Endorsem*nt:
- Celebrity chef Vivian Howard endorses Duke's in commercials, emphasizing its ability to enhance the flavors of tomatoes and bacon.
Mayonnaise History
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Duke's Mayonnaise:
- Created by Mrs. Eugenia Duke in 1917 at Duke's Sandwich Shop in Greenville, South Carolina.
- Known for its tangy flavor, more egg yolks, and no added sugar.
- Currently, it is the third-largest mayonnaise brand in the U.S.
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Hellmann's Mayonnaise:
- Created by Richard Hellmann, an immigrant from Prussia, in 1905 in New York City.
- Originally developed in a delicatessen, it later became "Hellmann's Blue Ribbon Mayonnaise."
- Known by the name Best Foods in some regions.
- Immensely popular and one of the largest mayonnaise brands in the U.S.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the article provides a captivating glimpse into the culinary landscape of Wilmington, where mayonnaise preferences are not just a matter of taste but are deeply rooted in tradition, regional identity, and personal history. The blind taste test adds a dynamic element to the ongoing debate, showcasing that even staunch loyalties can be swayed by the nuances of flavor. Mayonnaise, in this context, becomes more than just a condiment—it's a cultural touchstone that unites and divides the residents of Wilmington.